Many new haircutters and even some experienced stylists
are under the common misconception that the length of their shears should
be determined by the size of their hand. In reality this is simply not the
case. Instead stylists must consider the variety of different styling techniques
they will employ in order to carry out their skilled work. Haircutting shears
are still measured in inches with the entire length of the shears calculated
from the ‘point end’ all the way to the back of the finger ring.
As mentioned previously, different sized shears are used to perform different
styling techniques. For example a short scissor is much better suited for
detailed precision cutting. While a longer scissor is preferred for powerful
cutting. The standard size most hairdressers use is between 5” and 6”.
This falls neatly into the middle ground between the shortest scissor at 4.5”
and the longest at 7”.
Ideally, if you can afford it, it is best to have
a shorter shear 5” or 5.5”, for precision cutting between your
fingers and a longer shear for the techniques listed below.
List
of common haircutting techniques which require a longer blade to complete:
Bob-Line Cutting When cutting a “bob-line” the hair is combed
down against the neckline. Here a longer blade will allow the stylist to
make fewer cuts to connect the line all the way across. This allows for
a ‘cleaner’ bob and will significantly reduce the time this
effect will take you to create. [Back to Top]
Cutting on the Skin As with ‘bob line’ cutting, when cutting
on the skin longer shears will allow a stylist to cut longer sections and
get cleaner looks more easily. It is also worth mentioning that a ‘crane
style’ handle (covered in Section 5) also helps when cutting on the
skin as it lifts the hand away from the body due to its innovative design. [Back to Top]
Scissor Over Comb Here the comb will pick up a wider section of hair
than your fingers. By using a longer blade you will be able to cut the hair
cleanly without it falling out of the comb. This benefits the stylist as
it requires less effort and most importantly less time. [Back to Top]
Slide Cutting If you attempt a slide cut with a shorter blade, your
hand will move through the section you have just cut due to it being in
close proximity to the blades. Because of this it is necessary to comb it
again to see what you have accomplished. This hassle and time consuming
practice can easily be eliminated with longer blades as it will allow you
to slide your blades into the hair without having to move the hair with
your hand. [Back to Top]
Cutting Around the
Face With short scissor blades your hand will no doubt be
in your clients face and in some cases can leave the finger rest of some
shears dangerously close to the individual’s eye. A longer blade here
will allow you to cut your clients hair with your hand a comfortable distance
back from their face. The benefits of this are that you can see what you
are doing better and the client has a much more comfortable experience. [Back to Top]
