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Section 6: The Ideal Blade Length

Many new haircutters and even some experienced stylists are under the
common misconception that the length of their shears should be determined
by the size of their hand. In reality this is simply not the case. Instead
stylists must consider the variety of different styling techniques they will
employ in order to carry out their skilled work. Haircutting shears are still
measured in inches with the entire length of the shears calculated from the
‘point end’ all the way to the back of the finger ring.

As mentioned previously, different sized shears are used to perform
different styling techniques. For example a short scissor is much better
suited for detailed precision cutting. While a longer scissor is preferred
for powerful cutting. The standard size most hairdressers use is between
5” and 6”. This falls neatly into the middle ground between the shortest
scissor at 4.5” and the longest at 7”.

Ideally, if you can afford it, it is best to have a shorter shear 5” or 5.5”,
for precision cutting between your fingers and a longer shear for the
techniques listed below.

Below is a brief list of common haircutting techniques which re-
quire a longer blade to complete:

Bob-Line Cutting

When cutting a “bob-line” the hair is combed down against the neckline.
Here a longer blade will allow the stylist to make fewer cuts to connect
the line all the way across. This allows for a ‘cleaner’ bob and will
significantly reduce the time this effect will take you to create.

Cutting on the Skin

As with ‘bob line’ cutting, when cutting on the skin longer shears will
allow a stylist to cut longer sections and get cleaner looks more easily. It
is also worth mentioning that a ‘crane style’ handle (covered in Section
5) also helps when cutting on the skin as it lifts the hand away from the
body due to its innovative design.

Scissor Over Comb

Here the comb will pick up a wider section of hair than your fingers. By
using a longer blade you will be able to cut the hair cleanly without it
falling out of the comb. This benefits the stylist as it requires less effort
and most importantly less time.

Slide Cutting

If you attempt a slide cut with a shorter blade, your hand will move
through the section you have just cut due to it being in close proximity to
the blades. Because of this it is necessary to comb it again to see what you
have accomplished. This hassle and time consuming practice can easily
be eliminated with longer blades as it will allow you to slide your blades
into the hair without having to move the hair with your hand.

Cutting Around the Face

With short scissor blades your hand will no doubt be in your clients face
and in some cases can leave the finger rest of some shears dangerously
close to the individual’s eye. A longer blade here will allow you to cut
your clients hair with your hand a comfortable distance back from their
face. The benefits of this are that you can see what you are doing better
and the client has a much more comfortable experience.

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